Adjusting to Dhaka

View from the top of the Grameen building (21st Floor)

I was brushing my teeth the other morning and out of habit dipped my toothbrush into the faucet’s running water before putting it into my mouth. About .5 seconds later I yelped, and started to violently spit out the toothpaste-y foam. I grabbed the bottled water sitting on the counter and rinsed by mouth and toothbrush carefully.

That’s kinda how it goes here…even normal routine requires extra thought!  

In mentally preparing for my trip, I anticipated a great amount of struggle. My days here so far have been significantly easier than I predicted in some ways. My time abroad in other places, particularly India and China, prepared me far more than I thought they would; driving experiences, language barriers, food discomfort, jetlag, etc are not so different.

Living in Bangladesh is, however, an adjustment. While I cannot tell if it is my own inhibitions or cultural standards or a bit of both, I simply feel I have less freedom. Even traveling to Dhaka it was clear that I was the only solo woman. No one said anything, but there were certainly looks and just a general feeling of discomfort. Here in Dhaka, as a woman and a foreigner, it is especially vital to be cautious as it is not a particularly safe city for foreigners, or even for locals. And of course, it always takes some adjusting to be casual about that dead cockroach on the stairs! :)

Being a predominantly Muslim country, local dress is very conservative, so despite the hot and muggy weather I’ve been wearing pants, long-sleeve shirts that cover my butt and a scarf. You hear the prayer calls across the city five times a day. I’m not yet adjusted to them so the first call (somewhere between 3 am and 4 am) has been waking me up. It’s a pretty sound, almost like a song.

Riding in a CNG (automated rickshaw)

Today marks the start of Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting! Before the first call Muslims eat their breakfast as they may not eat, drink or smoke from sunrise to sundown. It’s not acceptable for anyone, Muslim or not,  to eat, drink or smoke in public during the month and many food places are closed during the day. The few food carts I did see open today had fabric around their stands, blocking off a passerby’s view of food.

Walking in the botanical garden

So far I have not been caught in the torrential  monsoon weather! (I probably just jinxed myself.) The sun has even come out and a few of us visited the local botanical garden! It was incredibly nice to be somewhere quite and peaceful, and we could walk without dodging people or being harassed.

I feel like there is much more to add, but I will blog again soon! 

This photo is really for my mom and her goat obsession! Taken in the botanical garden.

Perhaps I will try the state-of-the-art "Jim!" I've heard there's a fold out treadmill :) 

 TK
Posted from Dhaka, Bangladesh